If you are looking for a moderate hidden gem sport climbing spot, this is it! Inkeul Crag is located in the Samseong mountains, directly next to the Anyang Art Park which is pretty easy to get to from many places in Seoul. You do have a small hike in order to get to the crag, but the path is generally easy to follow and you get a warm up before jumping on some climbs. There are two paths you can follow to get to this crag – one is about 45 minutes and the other is closer to 30 minutes. Both of the paths are from the Anyang Temple (안양사) parking lot. The video on the left shows the longer path with more clear signs and the video on the right shows the shorter path with less clear markings.
This climbing area is shaded from the sun in the early mornings but gets the sun for the rest of the day. It does have some tree cover to provide shade for you in the summer. This crag is comprised of 3 rocks – Mama Rock, Papa Rock, and Baby Rock. In Korean they are called 엄마바위, 아빠바위, and 아기바위. As the names suggest there are three separate parts with each section’s size corresponding to whether it is the Papa, Mama, or Baby Rock.
Routes here are pretty moderate, with the majority of grades in the 5.10s. There are a few 11s and 12s if you are looking to challenge yourself! The 10a’s and 10b’s are really quite fun and can be accessible to many intermediate climbers, or boulderers who want to try some outdoor sport climbing. You can find all the details about the routes in the Sport Climbing in Anyang guidebook.
It is located between two popular hiking trails and loops, so you may see and hear people hiking around you throughout the day. It’s also situated on a pretty steep hill with loose rocks and dirt, so finding good and safe belay spots can be tricky depending on how many people are there. Don’t be afraid to anchor yourself to a tree or ask a friend to anchor you while you belay. The hill can be slippery! There is one flat area towards the bottom of the hill that is a great place to set up a spot to chill out between climbs. It is big enough for 8-10 people to comfortably sit on a mat or with chairs. It is also possible to set up a hammock as there are many trees. Just be careful not tumble down when getting in and out!
When climbing here, you will often be the only people. Sometimes there are a few small parties of 2 or 3 people, but most of the time it is quiet and empty. This makes it an ideal spot to bring new outdoor climbers or a bigger group because you could set up a few different top ropes or have multiple people climbing different routes without having to wait.
Gear to bring: your own rope (60m minimum), harness, shoes, helmet, 12 quickdraws, and belay device. There is a small flat area to set up chairs or a mat for a home base.
Location: Anyansa Entrance Seoksu-dong, Manan-gu, Anyang-si, Gyeonggi-do
경기도 안양시 만안구 석수동 안양사입구